ShortScale Forum Index www.shortscale.org
Head 'n Neck Above
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 
UploaderUploader   ShortScale WikiBuilder

cool paint colors

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    ShortScale Forum Index -> Guitar Projects and Tech/Set-up
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
cur
.
.


Joined: 18 Jan 2009
Posts: 7291

PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:19 pm    Post subject: cool paint colors Reply with quote

Was at the discount store yesterday and picked up some cool vintag-like spray paint colors. Its Valspar paint + primer and its really easy to use and covers great. It has some build up to it, but not like high build primer. I have a 12 string Danelectro neck and a vintage lipstick pup that I am planning to build my brother a guitar with. Probably a Pro 1 body and use one of these colors. I think any of these with a solid cream pickguard.

coral pink, destiny, and flamenco pink


_________________

Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
paul_
.
.


Joined: 27 Jul 2006
Posts: 9042

PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 6:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dano as fuck!

Iíve daydreamed about using every single shade of those Valspar cans for Fender projects every time I go to Loweís.
_________________
Aug wrote:
which one of you bastards sent me an ebay question asking if you can get teh kurdtz with that 64 mustang? Mad

robertOG wrote:
fran & paul are some of the original gangstas of the JS days when you'd have to say "phuck"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
sunshiner
.
.


Joined: 02 Nov 2012
Posts: 3651
Location: Around the corner

PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are they enamel or.... something that is traditionally used to paint guitars? If it is enamel, is it good for guitar finish? I've seen similar paints in local shops and if they are fine, I might use one of them for finishing one day
_________________
matte30is wrote:
Someone man up and get a balloon.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
cur
.
.


Joined: 18 Jan 2009
Posts: 7291

PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use as a base coat and then finish with real automotive clear coat. The stuff you need a respirator to use. The spray can auto clear coat is shit. I have used the real expensive stuff that is catalayzed, but you need stringent temp and humidity to use properly, but they are hard as rock when dry.
_________________

Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
sunshiner
.
.


Joined: 02 Nov 2012
Posts: 3651
Location: Around the corner

PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So basically, I can use it, but I need to clear coat using an airbrush and an automotive paint?
_________________
matte30is wrote:
Someone man up and get a balloon.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
cur
.
.


Joined: 18 Jan 2009
Posts: 7291

PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Essentially, thatís what I do. 1) sand and prime with primer. 600 grit and you canít see/feel the imperfections. 2) Base coat with color you like.... doesnít matter the paint type. Let dry and set until all volitiles are gone. 3) clear coat with good automotive clear coat. Do not use spray can clear coat because it is formulated to be safe for people using in their back yards with out a respirator and takes months to set. This is by USA laws. I have been using dupli color gloss clear coat by the quart. Then I filter it and shoot with a cheap car paint gun and a small compressor. I use a 3m respirator. It still takes a while to cure, but it isnít alcohol based like the spray cans. 4) sand buff polish wax with good car wax synthetic polymer stuff.
_________________

Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
sunshiner
.
.


Joined: 02 Nov 2012
Posts: 3651
Location: Around the corner

PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you, that's the most detailed and simplest at the same time description of the process that I've ever seen anywhere. I'm thinking of a project which I might start by the end of the winter. I'm still considering using a can clear coat as I have no compressor, nor a place to work with it. It'll be drying for ages and will end up looking ugly, but that's a part of the intended design
_________________
matte30is wrote:
Someone man up and get a balloon.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
cur
.
.


Joined: 18 Jan 2009
Posts: 7291

PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The biggest thing that I have found with the more modern automotive clear coat is that the it will shrink glue joints in the body. I have done a coupe fixes on butchered up guitars and got everything smooth and perfect up to base coat. But after shooting with the canned clear, it caused the glue to shrink. This was either titebond wood glue or two part epoxy. I can't remember it happening with jb weld or bondo glazing and body glaze.
_________________

Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    ShortScale Forum Index -> Guitar Projects and Tech/Set-up All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group

Anti Bot Question MOD - phpBB MOD against Spam Bots
Blocked registrations / posts: 616837 / 0

Guitars at Musician's Friend

Help support this site by clicking the above link!