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Electric Guitar Build 001
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Chris Fleming
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Joined: 08 May 2013
Posts: 507
Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRGH!!!!! I fuckin hate finishing. I had just sanded the clear coat flat and all was looking grand, but when I wiped of the surface, the cloth I was using must have had some chunks of something in it and it scratch through past the freaking paint! Going the have to sand down the front face of the headstock and start again.
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Chris Fleming
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Joined: 08 May 2013
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Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did it again.... fucked it again! Missive over spray of lacquer. Total twat. Bought two cans of spray lacquer thinking I'd have too much. Used up a whole can on the headstock.
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Chris Fleming
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Joined: 08 May 2013
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Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ignore me. I'm just an idiot when it comes to thing that take time and care
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Joey
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Joined: 27 Jul 2008
Posts: 1904
Location: Atlanta, Georgia

PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

maybe tomin8r can give you some pointers, he likes painting the same guitar over.... and over..... and over.............
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robert(original)
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Joined: 20 Apr 2006
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Location: somewhere in the midwest

PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you used an entire can on the head stock?
just sand it back, use some burn in sealer. sand it flush, then mist your first three coats, sand those back, if you don;t have any wood showing, then start throwing clear on there. some folks don't level sand colors, especially black and white, but with the metallic green, i would
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Chris Fleming
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Joined: 08 May 2013
Posts: 507
Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2013 12:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've calmed down. Sanded back the back face and one side. Resealed it and will spray with more care when I have the time. I think it was spraying in bad light that got me. A bit the looked dry because of the light was actually over sprayed already... anyhoo... will try and follow the advise. Cheers
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Chris Fleming
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Joined: 08 May 2013
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Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok. Done with the neck. Kept going through on a few edges but managed to rectify easily enough. Onto the body. Found a guy locally that can do a few of the machine jobs for me, so I'll post some updates when I get back from his workshop. Ordered some mint pearl material. Should get that through any day?
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Chris Fleming
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Joined: 08 May 2013
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Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the Mint Pearl through. It's got a hint more green to it in real life. Looks ok I think





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cur
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Joined: 18 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

very nice!
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Joey
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Joined: 27 Jul 2008
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia

PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gawt damn that is super clean
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Chris Fleming
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Joined: 08 May 2013
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Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not as clean as it looks in the pics, but good enough for the mo. One thing I did was to leave the machine heads on after a couple of days drying which left raised rings around the washers. Looks fine though so I'll probably leave it. I'm pretty happy with the colour of the wood though. The Z-Poxy gave it a nice tint.

One problem I have is that having a zero fret might be an issue as the strings may be too close to the truss rod cover? I'll at least have to switch to fender style screws so that they'll be more flush, but might have to sand the cover back one or two layers? I'll look in to it anon.

Glad youz like the look of it though. Cheers
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Joey
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Joined: 27 Jul 2008
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia

PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ream or countersink the cover screw holes.... if that dont work, have fun shaving it
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Chris Fleming
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Joined: 08 May 2013
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Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 1:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah could be tricky.... might need doing though
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NickS
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Joined: 14 Jan 2008
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Location: Nr. Basinggrad, UK

PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The one thing I have against a zero fret is that they tend to develop a groove for each string and you can end up with the string pinging out of the groove when you do a bend. That's not really a problem with the Double Six but pretty bad with the cheap Japanese thing.
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robert(original)
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Joined: 20 Apr 2006
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Location: somewhere in the midwest

PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice volute! i used to be rather anti volute, but after playing some really nice high end archtops a few years back i have re-considered them altogether, i believe if they are done properly and what not then it makes playing at the nut feel more natural, too close and small then its just awkward. plus its sort of an art form, like shaping a heel, each manufacturer has there own style, anywho, bravo!
about the zero fret nut issue, i looked back at the pics, it'll be a close one for sure, but you may be alright.
perhaps a "thick" piece of pickguard material for an acoustic would be in order, or something, you know like a one ply peice, have you already measure the break angle from the tuners to the nut? im sure you have, but the e strings almost look like the hole is too high so you would almost have to add a few extra wraps to keep the string down.
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cur
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Joined: 18 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joey wrote:
Ream or countersink the cover screw holes.... if that dont work, have fun shaving it


Yeah, do it like a pickguard but with tiny screws. would look nice.

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Chris Fleming
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Joined: 08 May 2013
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Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NickS - Yup I've known that problem myself. I've always liked the evenness of the sound more than anything else, like when you're using a capo. If It happens though I can easily redo that one fret when needed. If it doesn't work for me at all, I figure I can knock up one of these necks easily enough. They don't take that long to do and are easier for me to make than Fender style ones.

robert(original) - Cheers. I had the same feelings for them to when I first started the guitar course I was on, but really like them now. As you say though, if they are the wrong shape they can be horrible. This shape is one I've used before and it seems to sit well in the hand.
As for the pickguard material? I might get away with countersinking different screws but if that not enough I'll have a go at sanding off one mint and one black layer? Might not be too hard if I stick it to a block first? I'll try it out first though.

cur - Yup. I'll give that type a go for sure. The ones I've seen look kinda fat though? Probably ok though. These ones are tiny right enough
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cur
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Joined: 18 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

look around at a good hardware store. lowes and HD do not have good selection of stuff, but the ace hardware and other locally owned places do. also, do you have a fastenal in your area. they have helped me match weird stuff for old japanese bridges and will give me a call when it arrives.

http://www.fastenal.com/
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Chris Fleming
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Joined: 08 May 2013
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Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nah... I'm in the UK and we have really crappy hardware shops. I had a quick look at it again and I think I'll be ok with the screws changed.
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cur
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Joined: 18 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris Fleming wrote:
Nah... I'm in the UK and we have really crappy hardware shops. I had a quick look at it again and I think I'll be ok with the screws changed.


well you can always steal some small screws out of some kids remote control car when they are not looking.
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