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DGNR8
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Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 4:06 pm    Post subject: Toggle This! Reply with quote

What am I supposed to solder here? I have not seen a toggle like this. I think it's pretty old.



Also, the cap on my Seymour Duncan Little 59 snaps on and off. It looks like it is supposed to be glued. Do I really need it to protect the insides? Should I glue it back on? Uh--what do those screws adjust, ahyhow?

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Aug
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dude...hit the toggle switch with a multimeter and test for resistance. easy-peasy-japaneasy.

as for the pup, yea man...just glue it back on. the 12 screws are your 'poles' and they are adjustable for height.
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DGNR8
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I am guessing I can't do it without a multimeter. I figured I'd try to eyeball it, based on the wiki schematic and the existing solder. Luckily it has the six terminals shown in the drawing. Damn you, mulletmeter!

I hooked everything up the way it shows in the diagram, and-- I get buzzing. Nothing. I guess with a multimeter I could tell if it is the wires, the switch, the pots, or the pups, since I don't know for sure that any of them work. Everything looks good, at least. Even poly would look good if the fucker worked. I have a 60s pup and a new Kent Armstrong in it. I am also thinking about using the Little 59 since it's a 59. I have no intention of every buying pups from the 50s. They would be wasted on my lack of chops.

One question I have with the diagram. The blue=black and the yellow=white. So I when each pickup goes to the same terminal, intuitively I am expecting for them to be the same color. That way they are both in the ON position together. That way in position 1 the neck only is on, in 2 they both are on, and in 3 the bridge only. This way it would seem that in 1 they are both off, in 2 neck, and 3 bridge.

I actually think the Mustang setup is easier to manage in some ways than the Duo. The Musicmaster is pretty easy to follow. Suckily, the one I had ready to go is a late 70s, so the half-guard and chrome tail didn't fit. I may HAVE TO go without a guitar for a while if I can't get any of them put together.


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Aug
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

make sure the input jack is grounded, and also make sure you don't have the wires switched on the input jack.
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DGNR8
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh. Oopsie! Now we're getting somewhere. Thanks!

I didn't have it grounded. That will stop the circuit? I am sure that's like step number 1 in wiring.

What happens if white wire is hooked to the wrong terminal on the input jack? I know these are bonehead questions, but you have to start somewhere. Embarassed
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iCEByTes
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

.5 dont used anymore

use .47 instead , get an Spague ones , its better qualitty control
(Vishay/Sprague Polyester Orange Drop Capacitors)

http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/electrical_capsorange.htm

but for humbuckers and lipsticks , i stick .22

i using oranges .22 at my white Smile , alphas 500k , 1/4 Switchcraft


my Gritante will use .22 too
w
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Last edited by iCEByTes on Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Doog
can i get uhhh


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lozzle fo shozzle
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DGNR8
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, sure as shit, that diagram was right. But still nothing. I have to think something is fuckered. I still get buzzing only. I have checked and re-checked. I know--get a multimeter. Icey, I would even try an Orange Drop at this point. I have some.

So where to start? Assume nothing works and use all new parts? I have pots and caps. I guess I need to buy two new switches. (This other 50s model has one, but it looks like it was made by Thomas Edison). I guess I could build the whole string with different parts. I even have a repro pickguard I could strap it all into.


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Last edited by DGNR8 on Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:48 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Aug
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Without a multimeter, you really are shooting in the dark. Go to Radio Shack and get one for like $7. You have no more excuses.
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Doog
can i get uhhh


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For real, they're dead handy for guitar steez in general.
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DGNR8
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, shit. I thought they were like $50. What am I waiting on? I even found a tutorial. I wish someone would do these for all sorts of guitar related techniques. Thanks, sorry.
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bassintom
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just me but I would ground the jack to one of the pots then run a ground wire to the tailpiece.(err bridge).And I would ground the pots to each other just for shits and giggles.
Doesn't look like your ground circuit is complete from those pics.
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Aug
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that wiring job will do, provided everything is grounded to a metal plate. DGNR8...you need to do like bass here suggested and solder a ground wire from the input jack, across both pots and possibly to the toggle ground. You'll also need a ground wire to the bridge.
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DGNR8
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, interesting. I strung it from the jack to under the bridge because I have seen it done on other guitars, but I could easily connect it to the pots alng the way. Cool. And my meter is in teh mailz.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From what i can see in the pictars the toggle is grounded to a pup?..My theory is ground everything.This has worked for me so far.The toggle should be grounded to the pots as Aug said.Run a separate ground to the bridge.If it'll help tonite I'll pull the plate on my duo and try to post a pic.Let me know.
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Hurb
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the reason the schematic aint showing ground wires by the way is because it will be for the early metal guard duo's.

That was a hurb big fat fact for the day!


get that shit grounded dude!
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Aug
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aug wrote:
that wiring job will do, provided everything is grounded to a metal plate.


You're a day late and a dollar short, hurbz. Laughing
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Hurb
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aug wrote:
Aug wrote:
that wiring job will do, provided everything is grounded to a metal plate.


You're a day late and a dollar short, hurbz. Laughing


lies. no one actually mentioned the metal guard so in short....screw youse guys.
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DGNR8
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OH SHIT! Actually, I missed that fact, Hurb. Mine is plastic. I will look at all the grounds! I thought grounds were just to stop buzzing. I am like the Mozart of wiring!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did it work?I NEED UPDATE!
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