My classical has been getting nearly all the love lately. It's so freeing to be able to grab any chord you want anywhere on the neck without hitting adjacent strings.

It's left me trying to figure out how to get an electric with a near 2-inch nut.

Nice to see proper wide nuts on some of these - when will electric makers learn?

I had one for many years and could only get it to break up with a high-output humbucker, a booster, AND the channels bridged. Even then, wasn't very dirty.

It'll be so cool when Squier finally puts Fender out of business.

Take the tubes out and either wrap them in paper or fit them in a smaller box tucked inside the amp.

Much better. Much.

Drink plenty of water and file them instead of clipping. They build up strength slowly over time as they're routinely stressed. Using lighter strings can also reduce wear.

Nobody here probably could use these, but they're too cool not to share:

http://www.pegheds.com/

They're visually identical to traditional wooden violin/viola/cello/guitar friction pegs, but have an internal planetary gear for stable tuning. Makes me want to take up violin again!

Whatever you play I'm interested to hear a good demo of the Multidrive. It seems like it has a lot of variety in it.

one of the best fender inventions, EVER. I don't know who came up with it but it's not fender because my 63-64 Danelectro Pro has a similar but simpler version of the micro-tilt. I've heard it credited to Danelectro, but the idea is older. National, I believe, used a similar system in the '50s, and...

Great success!

When I was going through guitars in my house and plugged my Mustang into my Yamaha amp. I dialed it in and started thinking "Man, this sounds really great." Then I plugged my old Dano into the same amp, same settings, and was reminded "Oh yeah, this is why it's the only electric I pla...

I should've clarified - Faded series with a fret dress and the nut fixed. Or the Epiphone faded that is just perfect from the factory.

Is that an elevated pickguard? I will say this, in comparison with many modern Gibsons, at least this one's neck has a volute. they did that during the 70's, now they don't. Why did they stop? Too labor-intensive? I've actually been wracking my brain trying to figure out why anyone would buy this. ...

Is that an elevated pickguard?

I will say this, in comparison with many modern Gibsons, at least this one's neck has a volute.

My grandparents' house is completely lined - walls and ceilings - with old-growth redwood. Thousands of board-feet, at least a couple inches thick. It was pretty popular back in the day.

colabonham wrote:Body experiences also appreciated.

One time when I was 12...

Definitely don't break it off. And I'd steer clear of epoxy as well. With a clean crack you won't need gap-filling, and, should it re-break, you don't want too much glue residue in the break as that impedes future repair. The bar-none best, and possibly easiest, way to do this would be to use hot Hi...

cobascis wrote:Suggested brands of wood glue?

I'd go to a woodworking shop and ask.

The repair depends on how nice the guitar is.

In a basic sense, you'd use a pipette to inject water-thin glue deep into the crack and then clamp it using a caul. Then sand/file any glue lines and touch up the finish. Since the crack is probably clean and still mates well, I'd use a wood glue.