How long should I wait between coats?
Broncomaster bass refin: oops.
Moderated By: mods
I go across the other way. But you want to do 50-30% overlaps with the paint line you just put down. I will take a couple coats to get good coverage. It should say on the can, but most spray primer can be recoated every 20 minutes. Also, I give a quick coat around the bends in the edges so I get build up there. I usually wait 4 hrs to overnight to smooth out with 600 grit wet sand.
Out of curiosity, what kind of interval should I have between coats? The Rustoleum can says I can do two coats per hour and/or leave 48 hours between coats. I want to get at least another two coats on there--probably more, since there are some thin spots around the edges and in the cutaways. What kind of a timetable am I looking at?
- robert(original)
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- Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 12:30 pm
- Location: somewhere in the midwest
Sprayed too close on one coat and got a big drip running down the back. I thought I had it sanded out before I started spraying again, but not completely, it seems. I'll give it another couple of days, sand a little more, spray a little more?
Worst case scenario, it's only noticeable when the light hits it just so, and it's on the back anyway, so nobody has to know about it but me.
Worst case scenario, it's only noticeable when the light hits it just so, and it's on the back anyway, so nobody has to know about it but me.
Remember this project? Yeah, still working on it. But I've gotten as far as my second can of clear, so progress, right? In my own defense, the weather hasn't exactly been conducive to opening a window for ventilation the last few months.
While I wait out this latest visit from the polar vortex, you guys can help me pick a pickguard. I originally envisioned it with either black or BWB, but the white on yellow looks a lot better than I was expecting, so I suppose I could leave it as is. Pretty much anything at WD Music is potentially on the table--within reason (I'll skip the snakeskin print and the skull pile). If I'd bought the black Bronco bass to start with, I probably would have thrown the silver paisley guard on there and been done with it, but I'm not sure what's best to do with the yellow.
![Image](http://bestnetworx.com/uploader/files/410/IMG_3234.JPG)
While I wait out this latest visit from the polar vortex, you guys can help me pick a pickguard. I originally envisioned it with either black or BWB, but the white on yellow looks a lot better than I was expecting, so I suppose I could leave it as is. Pretty much anything at WD Music is potentially on the table--within reason (I'll skip the snakeskin print and the skull pile). If I'd bought the black Bronco bass to start with, I probably would have thrown the silver paisley guard on there and been done with it, but I'm not sure what's best to do with the yellow.
- JohnnyTheBoy
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- Location: Middle England
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Looking gooooodddd!!mixtape wrote:Remember this project? Yeah, still working on it. But I've gotten as far as my second can of clear, so progress, right? In my own defense, the weather hasn't exactly been conducive to opening a window for ventilation the last few months.
While I wait out this latest visit from the polar vortex, you guys can help me pick a pickguard. I originally envisioned it with either black or BWB, but the white on yellow looks a lot better than I was expecting, so I suppose I could leave it as is. Pretty much anything at WD Music is potentially on the table--within reason (I'll skip the snakeskin print and the skull pile). If I'd bought the black Bronco bass to start with, I probably would have thrown the silver paisley guard on there and been done with it, but I'm not sure what's best to do with the yellow.
I'm planning on re-finishing my cv duosonic soon, but not sure if I need to strip the finish totally, or sand back and then spray?..
This project is done--pics by Monday--just have to finish setting it up. But since I'm switching to heavier strings, the nut slot for the low E is now a little too snug around the edges, right at the top of the nut. Any tips for widening it without destroying anything or buying the fancy nut files that I can't afford because I'm unemployed? (also why the new pickguard is on hold) My game plan right now is 600 grit sandpaper + extreme caution.
These pics are late (naturally). Holiday weekend, and when I took a closer look at it, all of the nut slots needed widening, not just the low E, and that bridge is a beast to intonate. I figure close enough is good enough, or at least it will have to be. It's good to have this bass back, finally. When the time comes, I'll celebrate my return to the workforce with a new pickguard (black? white pearl? tort?).
![Image](http://bestnetworx.com/uploader/files/410/IMG_3253.JPG)
![Image](http://bestnetworx.com/uploader/files/410/IMG_3256.JPG)
- dustandbarley
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- Posts: 54
- Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 12:16 pm
I'm also with you on the troublesome intonation.
You've doen a fantastic job, what a great looking bass. Great thread also with the "how to do it" advice.
Here is a thread that also tackles intonation issues with this type of bridge as it might be if interest. As I remember the Wilkinson rotating saddles are available separately form their bridge.
All good![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
You've doen a fantastic job, what a great looking bass. Great thread also with the "how to do it" advice.
Here is a thread that also tackles intonation issues with this type of bridge as it might be if interest. As I remember the Wilkinson rotating saddles are available separately form their bridge.
All good
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)