A while ago I came across a Burns Bison neck in black. It's lovely. Now, I want to stick it on my long-suffering teardrop neck. Lots of problems when I last made a stab at it but I feel I'm in a much better place to finish the damn thing off at this point, and the Burns neck would look absolutely blinding on it.
Two issues:
It's 25" scale. The guitar is already drilled out for everything to be fitted for a 25.75 scale, so that will require some work. As it's routed for three minihum pickups the worst bit will be filling and then rerouting the pickup routs, but I'm planning to cover most of that with a pickguard anyway, so fuckups in that area won't really be a big issue.
Issue number 2, and this is the biggie: The neck heel is a bit too wide for the pocket. How do I rout it out a bit wider? It's probably less than a mm either side. I have basic equipment, a dremel and a drill with a range of bits but what do I need to be aware of? How can I keep from fucking this up baaaad?
What tools do I use to widen out a neck pocket?
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What tools do I use to widen out a neck pocket?
Brandon W wrote:you elites.
I usually get a small block of wood (like iPhone size) and wrap sandpaper around it. With coarser paper, I do a couple bits on one half trying to make sure to keep the block flat against the wood so I don't sand at an angle. Then I do a little on the other side also being careful. Happened a lot with me trying to put a Japanese neck on a US body. The Japanese ones tend to be a little to wide.
I was going to advise a sanding block method as well, if it's only 1mm or so.
I definitely wouldn't use a drill, and would probably only attack it with a dremel if I had a router base attachment to control the depth and steady it nicely... heavy grit and a block will keep it nice and flat though, then you can smooth it out with finer grit paper and the same block.
I definitely wouldn't use a drill, and would probably only attack it with a dremel if I had a router base attachment to control the depth and steady it nicely... heavy grit and a block will keep it nice and flat though, then you can smooth it out with finer grit paper and the same block.
Aug wrote:which one of you bastards sent me an ebay question asking if you can get teh kurdtz with that 64 mustang?
robertOG wrote:fran & paul are some of the original gangstas of the JS days when you'd have to say "phuck"
Well, I've been sanding and I've ended up with a bit of a curve at the bottom of the pocket, so the neck now fits in but not quite all the way. So I'm going to get a sharp knife and effectively chisel away at the last bits. But otherwise it's nearly there. Now I need to do some filling and it should be nearly ready for spraying.
This is exciting. I suppose I should order the pickups and scratchplate material now...
This is exciting. I suppose I should order the pickups and scratchplate material now...
Brandon W wrote:you elites.
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A box of utility blades (as for boxcutters) is actually far from a bad tool for some basic scraping needs. Also, I know you already did most of this, but I would have recommended a small handheld chisel.
I like using utility blades without the knife handle. Obviously wear a glove and have protection, but you can really get the blade into tight spots without the handle. And if it gets dull, just pop out a new one.
I like using utility blades without the knife handle. Obviously wear a glove and have protection, but you can really get the blade into tight spots without the handle. And if it gets dull, just pop out a new one.
Kicking and squealing Gucci little piggy.