Orange Amp Channel Switcher

Pickups, pedals, amps, cabs, combos

Moderated By: mods

User avatar
Mattsican
.
.
Posts: 657
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:27 am
Location: Bremerton, WA
Contact:

Orange Amp Channel Switcher

Post by Mattsican »

I've and Orange Dual Terror. The Official footswitch is huge so im trying to build one to replace it that fits my pedal board better. I found some info and bought all the required parts it said to get based on this other forum post.
http://forum.orangeamps.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44757

I got the box all drilled and painted. Ordered the footswitch, jack (stereo), LED etc. I put it together and it didnt work at all.

I mostly followed this schematic.
Image

I've a feeling i ordered the wrong DPDT switch. I wired it in according to the pattern shown. I'm not sure though if it matters which 4 posts and 2 posts on it i use when wiring it up? also the "120 Ohms to 1K - Individual (470 ohms)" im not sure what it means. i had ordered 470k ohms 1/4 watt resistor so that may be the problem there. I also thought it was odd the parts list called for a stereo 1/4" input jack rather than a mono. i have everything correct for sure except the footswitch, input jack and resistor. I'm good at following directions and using a soldering iron, but not so good with electronics knowledge in general. If anyone can help me out it'd be greatly appreciated.
facebook.com/Steelscape
facebook.com/GetToMars
User avatar
Fakir Mustache
.
.
Posts: 4362
Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2013 5:23 pm

Post by Fakir Mustache »

Wow, that's a lot of work for nothing. Absolutely no point in wiring up all those green wires together, or that red stuff. In fact, it would work with a single pole single throw switch to do exactly the same thing.

But that pointless extra wiring wouldn't hurt I guess.

Maybe you wired the LED backwards.

Did you order a momentary or latching switch? Given the LED is there, I would think you need the latching type. However, if it is momentary, it would work if you keep your foot on it or use a brick for the channel that lights up the LED.

edit: also make sure the blades in pic are facing the same way. Basically you need one green wire to one of the middle lugs and one to the red lug that corresponds (on the same side). Wire the rest for lulz if you want. Makes no difference if you wire the switch upside-down.
NickD wrote: Fri Mar 25, 2022 11:44 pm
plopswagon wrote: Fri Mar 25, 2022 7:05 pm Fuck! My car runs on Tubes!
When you press the accelerator past halfway it doesn’t actually go any faster, but the engine noise distorts
User avatar
Zack
.
.
Posts: 700
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 6:49 pm
Location: Chicago

Post by Zack »

Fakir is spot on with his post, if it isn't the LED or the switch being wired wrong then maybe you have the stereo jack wired incorrectly. According to this diagram you only need a mono jack but the stereo will work.
User avatar
Mattsican
.
.
Posts: 657
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:27 am
Location: Bremerton, WA
Contact:

Post by Mattsican »

Hmm. I didnt think the LED was directional at all. I did notice one wire off of it was shorter than the other though. I'm going to order a mono jack and a new latching switch. As far as the resistor though... how important is that? Will the 470kohm 1/4 work? Thanks again for all the help!
facebook.com/Steelscape
facebook.com/GetToMars
User avatar
Fakir Mustache
.
.
Posts: 4362
Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2013 5:23 pm

Post by Fakir Mustache »

Stereo jack and DPDT switch will work though, you just don't have to wire all the lugs.

And it probably isn't momentary if it wasn't sold as such. I don't know how much of a pedal noob you are, but if there's a strong tactile click like MXR pedals, it's not momentary.

LEDs are DIODES. Their purpose is to regulate flow in one direction. Why do you think they put a + and - in the diagram on the diode?
Last edited by Fakir Mustache on Wed Jan 20, 2016 9:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
NickD wrote: Fri Mar 25, 2022 11:44 pm
plopswagon wrote: Fri Mar 25, 2022 7:05 pm Fuck! My car runs on Tubes!
When you press the accelerator past halfway it doesn’t actually go any faster, but the engine noise distorts
User avatar
NickS
.
.
Posts: 13703
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:08 am
Location: Down at the end, round by a corner

Post by NickS »

Mattsican wrote:Hmm. I didnt think the LED was directional at all. I did notice one wire off of it was shorter than the other though. I'm going to order a mono jack and a new latching switch. As far as the resistor though... how important is that? Will the 470kohm 1/4 work? Thanks again for all the help!
Diodes only pass current one way so if you're powering it from a battery or DC adaptor yes, that will matter. Also 470k seems way huge for an LED dropper resistor. If it's running off a 9v supply I'd expect it to be in the ballpark of 10k depending on how bright you want it to be.
User avatar
markleton
.
.
Posts: 315
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2008 6:09 pm
Location: Ipswich, UK

Post by markleton »

NickS wrote:
Mattsican wrote:Hmm. I didnt think the LED was directional at all. I did notice one wire off of it was shorter than the other though. I'm going to order a mono jack and a new latching switch. As far as the resistor though... how important is that? Will the 470kohm 1/4 work? Thanks again for all the help!
Diodes only pass current one way so if you're powering it from a battery or DC adaptor yes, that will matter. Also 470k seems way huge for an LED dropper resistor. If it's running off a 9v supply I'd expect it to be in the ballpark of 10k depending on how bright you want it to be.
The power for the LED comes from the amp itself, maybe the larger resistor takes into account a larger current draw? But if the pedal doesn't work then it's the switch and jack that is junk. Make sure you have the sleeve and tip of the jack wired up correctly, there are a few similar schematics to the one you found online.
User avatar
NickS
.
.
Posts: 13703
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:08 am
Location: Down at the end, round by a corner

Post by NickS »

Corporate proxy server is blocking the pics referred to on orangeforum.
User avatar
Mattsican
.
.
Posts: 657
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:27 am
Location: Bremerton, WA
Contact:

Post by Mattsican »

Fakir Mustache wrote:Stereo jack and DPDT switch will work though, you just don't have to wire all the lugs.

And it probably isn't momentary if it wasn't sold as such. I don't know how much of a pedal noob you are, but if there's a strong tactile click like MXR pedals, it's not momentary.

LEDs are DIODES. Their purpose is to regulate flow in one direction. Why do you think they put a + and - in the diagram on the diode?

I honestly didnt even see the + and - until you just brought it up now hah. I'll keep that in mind when i give this another shot.
facebook.com/Steelscape
facebook.com/GetToMars
User avatar
Mattsican
.
.
Posts: 657
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:27 am
Location: Bremerton, WA
Contact:

Post by Mattsican »

So im thinking if i use this Image

It should work yeah?
facebook.com/Steelscape
facebook.com/GetToMars
User avatar
Fakir Mustache
.
.
Posts: 4362
Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2013 5:23 pm

Post by Fakir Mustache »

Yeah.
NickD wrote: Fri Mar 25, 2022 11:44 pm
plopswagon wrote: Fri Mar 25, 2022 7:05 pm Fuck! My car runs on Tubes!
When you press the accelerator past halfway it doesn’t actually go any faster, but the engine noise distorts
User avatar
dots
BADmin (he/him)
Posts: 1022253
Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 4:16 pm
Location: Esco-A-Go-Go
Contact:

Post by dots »

any word?
User avatar
Mattsican
.
.
Posts: 657
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:27 am
Location: Bremerton, WA
Contact:

Post by Mattsican »

dots wrote:any word?
I built it, but haven't had a chance to get to the practice space to try it on my amp yet. I'll update w/pics once i know for sure it works.
facebook.com/Steelscape
facebook.com/GetToMars
User avatar
Mattsican
.
.
Posts: 657
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:27 am
Location: Bremerton, WA
Contact:

Post by Mattsican »

Here are the pictures. Started with a bare aluminum box and drilled the holes, then painted. Followed the wiring diagram i modified based on feedback everyone has given me here. I won't be able to try it out until tonight.
Image
Image
Image
facebook.com/Steelscape
facebook.com/GetToMars
User avatar
dots
BADmin (he/him)
Posts: 1022253
Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 4:16 pm
Location: Esco-A-Go-Go
Contact:

Post by dots »

hey, at least it looks really cool! clean, too!
User avatar
Mattsican
.
.
Posts: 657
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:27 am
Location: Bremerton, WA
Contact:

Post by Mattsican »

I was able to try it out and it worked perfect! The LED is a bit dim, but it's actually better that way i think. Thanks to everyone for their help!
facebook.com/Steelscape
facebook.com/GetToMars
User avatar
markleton
.
.
Posts: 315
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2008 6:09 pm
Location: Ipswich, UK

Post by markleton »

Mattsican wrote:I was able to try it out and it worked perfect! The LED is a bit dim, but it's actually better that way i think. Thanks to everyone for their help!
To brighten the LED up you could change the resistor for a lower value. Does the LED flicker or turn off occasionally? I found my Orange footswitch did this sometimes.
User avatar
Mattsican
.
.
Posts: 657
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:27 am
Location: Bremerton, WA
Contact:

Post by Mattsican »

markleton wrote:
Mattsican wrote:I was able to try it out and it worked perfect! The LED is a bit dim, but it's actually better that way i think. Thanks to everyone for their help!
To brighten the LED up you could change the resistor for a lower value. Does the LED flicker or turn off occasionally? I found my Orange footswitch did this sometimes.
I assumed that is why it wasn't that bright. I do a lot of two hand tapping while switching effects on my board. It gets distracting while playing in a dark venue to have the bright ass light on in the background while trying to see what I'm playing. So that's actually a welcome result.

The LED doesn't flicker or anything. It never did on my original orange footswitch either.
facebook.com/Steelscape
facebook.com/GetToMars