I am just so crap at painting

Painting? Routing? Set-up tips? Or just straight-up making a guitar from scratch? Post here, and post pics!

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NickS
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I am just so crap at painting

Post by NickS »

Image
Image

I just don't seem to be able to spray a continuous coat of polyurethane without a run. If I do it it lighter I don't actually get 100% cover (second pic, where it looks lumpy).

I think I'm going to have to set up something like a barbecue spit rotator like they do to avoid runs on car bodies.
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robroe
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Post by robroe »

good idea. get a giant pig rod and RUN EM THRU !!!
dots wrote:incesticide
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tribi9
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Post by tribi9 »

When I painted my Cyclone, I sprayed light coats each time (I think I did like like 6-7 coats) And I never got any lumps or orange peel. Spray lightly eventually it'll be all covered!
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Post by Sublimedo »

tribi9 wrote:Spray lightly eventually it'll be all covered!
+1 100%. dont get discouraged. If you hate the way it looks sand it all off and start over. I used to think it was such a reranch thing to say, but its true. its well worth the patience.
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NickS
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Post by NickS »

tribi9 wrote:When I painted my Cyclone, I sprayed light coats each time (I think I did like like 6-7 coats) And I never got any lumps or orange peel. Spray lightly eventually it'll be all covered!
Thanks for the suggestion. So you don't try to join all the dots on the first coat?
sublimedo wrote:dont get discouraged. If you hate the way it looks sand it all off and start over. I used to think it was such a reranch thing to say, but its true. its well worth the patience.
Thanks for the encouraging words. This is about the fourth attempt over the last 30 years. It was originally a dark green, then flat gold (which looked crap, with runs), then flat orange (with runs), then matt white for younger son Matt (??) and I'm redoing it black sparkle with clear coat for my younger daughter.
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Post by NickS »

OK, sprayed thin coats until the can ran out.
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Now letting it hang and harden (the neck is to hang it by, there's about 1/16" gap between the neck and body)
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then it's rub down (finest grit I can get around here is 600 wet/dry) and polish?
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Post by tribi9 »

NickS wrote:OK, sprayed thin coats until the can ran out.
Image
Now letting it hang and harden (the neck is to hang it by, there's about 1/16" gap between the neck and body)
Image
then it's rub down (finest grit I can get around here is 600 wet/dry) and polish?
I went 800/1000/1500/2000 grit and yes it was a bitch to get here too!
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Post by robert(original) »

definitly use over 2000 before polishing,
and no matter how thin or light the coats are you will always get orange peel.
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Post by roachello »

if u want a super shiny clear coat without having to sand it, then Spray gun is your way to go. The clear coat just goes on like butter. The only downsides are that you have to use an air compressor and clean your gun thoroughly afterwards which takes awhile. But you still have to mist it first, wait 2-3 minutes, come back and apply one coat, wait 5 minutes, come back and do another coat, wait 5-10 minutes, etc.
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Post by DGNR8 »

Many coats of clear plus wet sanding can save anything almost.
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NickS
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Post by NickS »

roachello wrote:if u want a super shiny clear coat without having to sand it, then Spray gun is your way to go. The clear coat just goes on like butter. The only downsides are that you have to use an air compressor and clean your gun thoroughly afterwards which takes awhile. But you still have to mist it first, wait 2-3 minutes, come back and apply one coat, wait 5 minutes, come back and do another coat, wait 5-10 minutes, etc.
I don't have that kind of machinery. :(

I asked my brother, who works for a refinish car paint manufacturer, whether he could get it done as an apprentice piece, preferrably in a chameleon (flip) colour. "We're not allowed to do that sort of thing since the Americans took over."

I'm told I may be able to get finer grits in a refinish pack from Halfords (UK car parts/accessories chain) so I'll try to get there at lunchtime.
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Post by NickS »

Went to Halfords, have a pack of 1 sheet each of 600, 800, 1000, 1200 and a 4-pack of 1500. Hopefully that'll do the trick.
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Post by ihatetanks »

When you get a run put a piece of masking tape on it right away and rip it off quickly. Then just respray the area until it's covered. It sounds crazy but that's how I fix runs when I'm painting cars.
if it feels good do it.
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Post by robert(original) »

really.....
only problem with that is, even if the lacquer has dried and you spray another coat, it "burns in" and will remove the layer underneath it.
found that out when i made that green archtop during the summer, a bug flew into the finish and when i pulled it off some of the color came off as well.
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Post by Ninja Mike 808 »

Looks like a Jackson I spray painted back in the day...

Try cleaning the nozzle in between coats.
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euan
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Post by euan »

Ninja Mike 808 wrote:Looks like a Jackson I spray painted back in the day...

Try cleaning the nozzle in between coats.
Flip the can upside down and spray until clean?
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Post by robert(original) »

the nozzel idea i a good one!
i know on some areosols the knozzel can be changed out, but on others its fixed.
eitherway some thinner would be good.
at just wet a q tip and clean the face of it.
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euan
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Post by euan »

Even on the removeable nozzle ones when you finish painting you should flip the can upside down and spray until what comes out is clear.
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Post by Ninja Mike 808 »

euan wrote:
Ninja Mike 808 wrote:Looks like a Jackson I spray painted back in the day...

Try cleaning the nozzle in between coats.
Flip the can upside down and spray until clean?
Exactly!

Really, tho? Spray paint? I mean, I FUCKED up that jackson, lmao
No matter what, tho, spray paint or air brushing, or one of those car painters, you should always clean the fucked out of it before/ after use. Even spray paint, I always change caps, I mean, you can clean em, but it's not like those little pieces of plastic cost a lot... If you can't change the cap, how ever, try using a needle or somethin'.