I know there was a thread about roughing up a Poly finish and then just painting away but can't remember.... What grit of Sand paper should I use? Any tips?
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Fuck that, I've stripped before and I wont do it again. That shit is nasty! Poly is a bitch to strip.bubbles_horwitz wrote: if it were me, i'd pull out the epoxy remover and just strip all the paint off.
Last edited by tribi9 on Wed May 07, 2008 7:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
tribi9 wrote:Fuck that, I've stripped before and I wont do it again. That shit is nasty! Poly is a bitch to strip.bubbles_horwitz wrote:start with 120 to get all the rough stuff out, then move on to 220, then finish up with 320.
but, if it were me, i'd pull out the epoxy remover and just strip all the paint off.
Srsly, I took the finish of a tele in 45 minutes, and it just smelled, uh, hot.aen wrote:pfft. I'd find osmebody wiht a heat gun and do it in an hour.
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600 sounds a bit course. Maybe start there and get up to 320 or even 220. You want it rough, but not jagged. I have done it both ways and I think roughing is perfectly acceptable for a non-vintage instrument. It can still be nicely done. It may not make the purists swoon, but it will be a custom color, and protected.
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60 is freaking course, so 320? 600? Which is it?NickS wrote:I think it goes the other way. 60 is really coarse, 600 pretty fine?DGNR8 wrote:600 sounds a bit course. Maybe start there and get up to 320 or even 220.
Is that the one you painted white? How did the finish turn out?ludger wrote:I did it with my Squier Tele Custom. I think I used 600 to dull the finish and give the primer something to grab on to.
Yeah, I couldn't remember what grit I used. I was going to type 220 but then looked at the pic and it looks like 600 on the table. Maybe I worked my way up there.DGNR8 wrote:600 sounds a bit course. Maybe start there and get up to 320 or even 220. You want it rough, but not jagged. I have done it both ways and I think roughing is perfectly acceptable for a non-vintage instrument. It can still be nicely done. It may not make the purists swoon, but it will be a custom color, and protected.
That's the one...(only I painted it light green). It turned out pretty good. I sanded through on a couple edges and didn't go back to fix it 'cause it's barely noticeable with the white primer underneath. Plus this was only a practice run. What I would do differently next time is go up higher with the grits. I stopped at 1500 (which is pretty good but not "floor room shine" good).tribi9 wrote:
Is that the one you painted white? How did the finish turn out?
You can see in the neck pocket the white primer to compare with the colour.
I can't remember what grit I used when I did this to my black poly finished LPJ body, but I do recall it being really fine, but we used an air sander which totally took off the poly (we just got a shit load of white powder) and when the finish felt like a nice matte finish, completely smooth too, we laid down the new colour. You can effectively turn the old finish into primer for a new finish.
Im doing my shiny new Mustang, since I love everything about it (except the color) the neck, the weight of the body and how everything fits perfectly!
As soon as I have my muso Tele done (About 3 days, I'll start)
Sorry, I already made up my mind and did a little test sand area on the body....
I'm going to try to get the paint guy at the auto suply store to visually match the blue on that JV strat that sold for like $1200 bux
Link
As soon as I have my muso Tele done (About 3 days, I'll start)
Sorry, I already made up my mind and did a little test sand area on the body....
I'm going to try to get the paint guy at the auto suply store to visually match the blue on that JV strat that sold for like $1200 bux
Link