Mustang VI - digging for the bottom end

Painting? Routing? Set-up tips? Or just straight-up making a guitar from scratch? Post here, and post pics!

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MatthewK
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Post: # 759171Post MatthewK »

Thanks for the positive comments. About the switch plate, I see your point, but I'm not sure what I could do instead. Mustang switches would mean mounting one in the "off pickguard" area, which would be a nightmare, and the only other thing I could think of would be to mount a rotary switch in place of the small tone knob on the control plate, like the Squier 51. But that would limit the switching options, plus I am not keen on that kind of switching. I don't like push-pull pots much either.
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James
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Post: # 759179Post James »

I'd say a toggle would look better. You could even try that 6-way toggle posted about elsewhere if you want lots of options.

Looking at what you have I'd wire a three way toggle so it goes bridge/middle+neck/neck. Then I'd have a blend pot for the middle and neck, a master volume and master tone.

If you wanted all of the options available, you could go bridge/bridge+neck/middle and the have a volume pot for the middle pickup that worked regardless of the position and again master volume and tone.
Shabba.
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MatthewK
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Post: # 759188Post MatthewK »

Unless the Jag plate looks horrendous it's kind of in keeping with the VI thing and it's also a bit simpler. But I get your ideas, I will add it to my thinking. I'll try the plate out visually before I commit to routing for it.
At the moment the plan for the control plate is volume and tone, plus a toggle for the low-cut which would be the 4th switchplate switch on a VI.
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othomas2
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Post: # 759240Post othomas2 »

I would cut switch holes in the guard itself in the same placement... that would make it look less busy and function just as you intended. Just like vertically switching mustang switches.

Great project btw.
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MatthewK
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Post: # 759243Post MatthewK »

Also a nice idea - and more Mustang I guess.
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hotrodperlmutter
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Post: # 759249Post hotrodperlmutter »

othomas2 wrote:I would cut switch holes in the guard itself in the same placement... that would make it look less busy and function just as you intended. Just like vertically switching mustang switches.
i'm for this. exactly what i was going to suggest. could even mount them low pro for when you're really digging them low lows.
dots wrote:fuck that guy in his bunkhole.
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MatthewK
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Post: # 759252Post MatthewK »

Well I haven't bought a Jag plate yet ... ! I will wait until it's starting to look like its finished form and then try it out with a few actual photos.
I am still considering a closed-cover Strat pickup set, anyone got any opinions there? From my reading it seems like the Mustang pickups are like hotter-wound Strat pickups, but given that these will be dealing with big strings, and the original VI used Strat ones, it seems like a reasonable choice.
Anyone got experience with the cheap Artec or Belcat sets?
You OK with the longer top horn, Rod? You liked the short one.
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hotrodperlmutter
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Post: # 759266Post hotrodperlmutter »

ha ha, it doesn't matter to me. tbh, the longer one looks better.

as far as strat vs mustang pickups, i always thought they used strat pickups for everything but tele's, jags, and jazzmasters. i dunno that mustang, duo, mm, or bronco pups are any hotter than strat pickups.

artec pickups rock, from my experience. i would put a modern hot rail in the bridge, and do some nice, hot single coils in the neck/middle. being that the bridge pickup is so much closer to the bridge, i'd want it as hot as possible.
dots wrote:fuck that guy in his bunkhole.
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MatthewK
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Post: # 759289Post MatthewK »

OK, cool, I will go with the Belcat ones listed then - the Artecs are 4.3/4.3/4.5 but the Belcats are 5.6/5.6/5.6 for a similar price, both sets Alnico V.
Am currently experiencing brain meltdown as I try to work out the headstock, it's got to be accurate for the tuners to sit right! I've got dowels etc but I need the edges to be flat and true so I can glue them seamlessly.
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hotrodperlmutter
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Post: # 759331Post hotrodperlmutter »

measure, cut, sand. can't go wrong. well, unless you sand too much.
dots wrote:fuck that guy in his bunkhole.
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MatthewK
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Post: # 759365Post MatthewK »

Wow, that was epic. Just used the world's cheapest and cruddiest drill press to drill 7 dowel sockets into both sides of the cut piece, trued the edges, applied glue ... and then the fun began, trying to persuade 7 dowels to go into 7 holes in rock hard maple. Luckily I was pretty accurate but it took about 30 minutes of pounding and squeezing with various clamps and vices. It's gone together now, I will give it 24 hours to dry, then it should be tough as nails.
I used 6mm x 30mm hard wood dowels and drilled one in between each of the tuners and one at each end - so everything will be very thoroughly braced. I strongly doubt it would be any weaker than the original wood.
Pics later.
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hotrodperlmutter
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Post: # 759383Post hotrodperlmutter »

bad ass dude. i remember seeing on a guitar blog a while ago where some guy was doweling bass tuner holes and blew the side of the headstock out. i didn't want to mention it until you'd already given it a go!

can't wait for pics!
dots wrote:fuck that guy in his bunkhole.
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MatthewK
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Post: # 759393Post MatthewK »

My method was pretty different to the approach of dowelling the tuner holes. Instead I decided to "cut and shut" the strip with the tuner holes in it.
So first, I cut lines either edge of the holes (top edge marked here):
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Taped it together, figured out where the tuners would go (measurements from Jag relative to neck lines and nut):
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Marked dowel lines half way between the tuner holes:
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Drilled them (a world of pain and difficulty separates this image from the last one!):
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(note holes from old tuner fixing screws in top piece)
Then put dowels in - about 8mm into the top strip, about 24mm into the main part of the headstock:
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Then bashed, squeezed, pounded, swore, etc. trying to get the edges together:
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The back is a bit rougher but it will be concealed by the backs of the Kluson type tuners. On the front you can see the small holes I made to locate the tuner holes when the thing is dry. I'm going to give it 24 hours.
On the difficulty scale I rate it an 8, it would probably be quicker to grow the trees to make the neck. Anyone who wants to try this should find an undrilled headstock which can be cut to shape easily!
Note that the round end piece is still to be attached of course. I just wanted to make sure the tuners were going to sit right.
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hotrodperlmutter
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Post: # 759416Post hotrodperlmutter »

oh holy shit. yeah, i had you all fucked up on that one.

you're doing a swinger headstock? my initial enthusiasm will have to shift if this is the case.
dots wrote:fuck that guy in his bunkhole.
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Post: # 759421Post IroniaSudby »

Image

Reminds me of this, Jazz Body with Jaguar Neck (Flying V pickups too.)
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MatthewK
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Post: # 759447Post MatthewK »

Hell yes - whose is that?
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hotrodperlmutter
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Post: # 759450Post hotrodperlmutter »

john squier i think? dude from stone roses. at least it looks like herm.
dots wrote:fuck that guy in his bunkhole.
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MatthewK
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Post: # 759452Post MatthewK »

It does look like Squier but I am used to his short hair from the self-title album photos.
hotrodperlmutter wrote:you're doing a swinger headstock? my initial enthusiasm will have to shift if this is the case.
No way! I have the round end still to attach, I just had to glue these two pieces first. Here's my old photoshop planning pic (man, pretty freakin accurate actually) (and yes, I will shape the rounded piece, don't want that giant doofus nose hanging at the end):
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Swinger, huh. Do you insult me, sir?
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Post: # 759522Post stewart »

i think the jag switch plate looks fine, btw.
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MatthewK
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Post: # 759735Post MatthewK »

Definitely easier to cut out on the pickguard! Thanks.
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