ShortScale.org

The guy at Office Depot was adjusting the templates size by adjusting by the paper size not by adjusting the scale. To print to scale on Adobe, you click on the printer icon, a screen pops up, adjust "Page Scaling" to "None". I'm gonna go back this weekend and try again.

Nice that we have neck templates, but does anyone have any info on shaping necks ina a quick and consistent manner? A spokeshave is awesome, but time consuming if you're planning on making multiple necks.

I plan on reorganizing the templates soon on the first post by category so things will be easier to locate. Keep sending in your stuff and I am glad this thread is a useful resource for all.

http://www.yousendit.com/download/eURD ... VW14dnc9PQ

Here is the marauder template I put up in adaminsane's thread earlier. It expires in a week, so if you can get it to something more permanent, that would be good.

mezzio13 wrote:http://www.yousendit.com/download/eURD ... VW14dnc9PQ

Here is the marauder template I put up in adaminsane's thread earlier. It expires in a week, so if you can get it to something more permanent, that would be good.

It won't let me download the link for the Marauder.


Links updated on the first post by catergory. Hope that simplies things.

Mez, I was reading at Offset... a guy used rough grade belt sandpaper, like 12" long. He used it like he was polishing shoes, working against the grains rather then with them, cleaned it up later by going with the grain.

I haven't done a neck, but if I did I'd use slanted router bits or round over bits to get it close. I posted a photo of a air bag spindle sander in another topic that would be great for profiling too.

I'd make 2 or 3 fake necks outta 2x4 from the hardware store first, to get the hang of profiling & fretting. Most of aren't lucky to get it right the first go around.

Mez, I got it to download now. I will add it to the index shortly. Thanks.

that telemaster is calling my name

Joey wrote:Mez, I was reading at Offset... a guy used rough grade belt sandpaper, like 12" long. He used it like he was polishing shoes, working against the grains rather then with them, cleaned it up later by going with the grain.

I haven't done a neck, but if I did I'd use slanted router bits or round over bits to get it close. I posted a photo of a air bag spindle sander in another topic that would be great for profiling too.

I'd make 2 or 3 fake necks outta 2x4 from the hardware store first, to get the hang of profiling & fretting. Most of aren't lucky to get it right the first go around.

I'd heard that too. I've been wanting to build a CNC table, but just don't have that sort of time. Unless I quit my job. Tempting, sorta...

Check youtube for "xyz router" or "copy carver". BigD & RoscoGuitar have video's using em. It's basically a CNC router without a motor. It's set up like a see-saw that swings up/down, moves on a track for left/right motion. I built one using CNC rails & bearings, cost me around $250. Most video's show em used on carved top guitars and I seen one being used on a neck profile.

Found a German website with a shedload of these.
Most interesting to me are the Jaguar neck and Epiphone (wilshire, etc) body .

LINK

There is a little overlap from what we already have, though there are loads of random things that somebody will probably find useful.

Anybody know how to scan a print/template & upload it (maybe in PDF)?

Scanning can be tricky. The feed direction of the scanner can cause some dimensional distortion and skew the image digitally. So, if you feed it in in the same direction of the strings, you may affect your scale length in a not so good manner. It also may not be consistent.

Say for example, you feed it in and your 24" becomes 24.3", that's a huge difference for intonation. But say you figure that you can just build it and use the scan to determine your fret positions; Scanners may or may not feed at a constant rate, and the dimensional distortion you get ma not be of a constant variable.

I used to convert mining maps from mylar to CAD, so I had to deal with this shit all of the time. We'd have survey benchmarks of by 2 or 3 feet. It was a real pain in the ass.

However, if you feed across the strings, you reduce the opportunity for distortions to occur. If your 2 1/16" string spread comes out to 2 1/8" you can fix that easy. You can also adjust your neck pocket dimensions accordingly as well. Plus, both of those critical dimensions would be corrected by default just from the parts themselves.

So remember, it's the opposite of slitting your wrists, you want to go across the street, not down the road.

I'll take that as a "no"

Some useful stuff on that german site Adam...cheers for posting!

Found a Jagstang outline PDF on TDPRI
The link is on post #11
If you want an 'accurate' JS use the Mustang templates for the routes, aligned to the centreline.
Use a ready made JS pickguard a guide for placing the route for the humbucker.

*edit*
Maybe Taylornut could put this with the others?

AddamInsane wrote:Found a Jagstang outline PDF on TDPRI
The link is on post #11
If you want an 'accurate' JS use the Mustang templates for the routes, aligned to the centreline.
Use a ready made JS pickguard a guide for placing the route for the humbucker.

*edit*
Maybe Taylornut could put this with the others?

I am not a member of that forum so I can't download it. Can you download it and email it to me?

Sorry, I didn't even think about that!
email sent!

If you guys have printers at home and dont want to go to Office depot to get these printed, I found a little freeware program called PDF Tiler. It will print these out on regular sized paper and you just have to tape them together.

LINK

Update: Jag-stang Body trace added. I also organized the Fender bodies into normal and offset catergories. See first page for all template listings.

Once I am confident this trace is accurate, I will use my mustang template to add the pickup, neck pocket, and bridge routes.

Would a Shortscaler with Jag-stang be willing to print this out and check it against your guitar?