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Was at the discount store yesterday and picked up some cool vintag-like spray paint colors. Its Valspar paint + primer and its really easy to use and covers great. It has some build up to it, but not like high build primer. I have a 12 string Danelectro neck and a vintage lipstick pup that I am planning to build my brother a guitar with. Probably a Pro 1 body and use one of these colors. I think any of these with a solid cream pickguard.

coral pink, destiny, and flamenco pink

Dano as fuck!

I’ve daydreamed about using every single shade of those Valspar cans for Fender projects every time I go to Lowe’s.

Are they enamel or.... something that is traditionally used to paint guitars? If it is enamel, is it good for guitar finish? I've seen similar paints in local shops and if they are fine, I might use one of them for finishing one day

I use as a base coat and then finish with real automotive clear coat. The stuff you need a respirator to use. The spray can auto clear coat is shit. I have used the real expensive stuff that is catalayzed, but you need stringent temp and humidity to use properly, but they are hard as rock when dry.

So basically, I can use it, but I need to clear coat using an airbrush and an automotive paint?

Essentially, that’s what I do. 1) sand and prime with primer. 600 grit and you can’t see/feel the imperfections. 2) Base coat with color you like.... doesn’t matter the paint type. Let dry and set until all volitiles are gone. 3) clear coat with good automotive clear coat. Do not use spray can clear coat because it is formulated to be safe for people using in their back yards with out a respirator and takes months to set. This is by USA laws. I have been using dupli color gloss clear coat by the quart. Then I filter it and shoot with a cheap car paint gun and a small compressor. I use a 3m respirator. It still takes a while to cure, but it isn’t alcohol based like the spray cans. 4) sand buff polish wax with good car wax synthetic polymer stuff.

Thank you, that's the most detailed and simplest at the same time description of the process that I've ever seen anywhere. I'm thinking of a project which I might start by the end of the winter. I'm still considering using a can clear coat as I have no compressor, nor a place to work with it. It'll be drying for ages and will end up looking ugly, but that's a part of the intended design

The biggest thing that I have found with the more modern automotive clear coat is that the it will shrink glue joints in the body. I have done a coupe fixes on butchered up guitars and got everything smooth and perfect up to base coat. But after shooting with the canned clear, it caused the glue to shrink. This was either titebond wood glue or two part epoxy. I can't remember it happening with jb weld or bondo glazing and body glaze.