ShortScale.org

Cause I can do it.
I cant however embed YouTube videos on my phone. So if somebody could help me out yo!

[youtube][/youtube]

Cheers man x

My pleasure!

Had this on TV last night, very therapeutic. I had to convince Lauren you were the same guy who used to throw his Behringer pedals around simulating travel from “cuntry to cuntry� all those years ago .

I do have to say your voiceover was really low volume compared to any other yt videos I watched before or after, you can definitely turn up a bit

Nick wrote:Had this on TV last night, very therapeutic. I had to convince Lauren you were the same guy who used to throw his Behringer pedals around simulating travel from “cuntry to cuntry� all those years ago .

I do have to say your voiceover was really low volume compared to any other yt videos I watched before or after, you can definitely turn up a bit

Haha brilliant!


Damn about the audio. Thank you for letting me know, will try and boost it next time stupid phone editing!

part 2

[youtube][/youtube]

Trying to get supplies but Reranch is closed from the winterstormapocalpse.

plopswagon wrote:Trying to get supplies but Reranch is closed from the winterstormapocalpse.

Ebay any good?

It’s like twice as much and made out of PayPal.

Hurb wrote:Damn about the audio. Thank you for letting me know, will try and boost it next time stupid phone editing!

If it's any help, most streamed content is mixed somewhere around -14LUFS. YouTube is supposed to automatically adjust every video to that same loudness level, but their loudness normalisation doesn't seem to work very well lol. If you keep that -14 figure in mind then you shouldn't end up too much louder or quieter than other videos.

Don't tell my boss because we make an "industry standard" loudness meter that probably bankrolls half my wages, but there are a few decent free ones knocking about. This one looks good: http://youlean.co/youlean-loudness-meter/

Cheers freddy.

So as long as the audio is bouncing around the -14 on the meter I should be good?

Exactly! The 'Integrated' measurement is the most important one. If you play your full audio track through the meter and your 'Integrated' value is somewhere around -14 then it's all gravey babey! But similarly, if you don't have time to measure the whole thing, as long as your 'Short-term' measurement is bouncing around -14 for the talky-talky bits then you should be good to go.

Good job Hurb.

Some comments, nae criticisms because after all the end result is what matters and there are many processes to get there.

I reckon with the dry heavy orange peel you had, starting with 600 was the correct way to go. When you have a heavy peel and you start with a finer grit you can end up having to work harder to get the same amount of reduction and risk burn through. If you start with 600 and knock off the initial highspots you can get to the 800 then 1200 planning to get it completely flat for 1500.

With soaking the paper over night and using soap...its not needed with modern wet and dry paper. And in a way having the stiffer paper helps the grit do the work rather than using finger tips, which can increase the change of burn through or a wavy finish. Light pressure with a block until the 1500 grit is how I would do it.

What is also good is to work in a single direction for one grit and swap to the next for the finer grit so you can spot unsanded scratches from the previous grit, then once onto the finer grit using circular motions.

Ye should have filmed the whole thing and released it as an ASMR video.

euan wrote:Good job Hurb.

Some comments, nae criticisms because after all the end result is what matters and there are many processes to get there.

I reckon with the dry heavy orange peel you had, starting with 600 was the correct way to go. When you have a heavy peel and you start with a finer grit you can end up having to work harder to get the same amount of reduction and risk burn through. If you start with 600 and knock off the initial highspots you can get to the 800 then 1200 planning to get it completely flat for 1500.

With soaking the paper over night and using soap...its not needed with modern wet and dry paper. And in a way having the stiffer paper helps the grit do the work rather than using finger tips, which can increase the change of burn through or a wavy finish. Light pressure with a block until the 1500 grit is how I would do it.

What is also good is to work in a single direction for one grit and swap to the next for the finer grit so you can spot unsanded scratches from the previous grit, then once onto the finer grit using circular motions.

Ye should have filmed the whole thing and released it as an ASMR video.

Haha yeah I started editing it and was like nobody is going to want watch 30 minutes of this let alone 5 hours!!

Great tips there Euan and gratefully received.

The 600 was definitely the way to go! Saved myself much ball ache there.

I imagine going in one direction definitely helps with the scratch spotting. I just haven't the attention span! After many sand throughs with a block on previous guitars I just gave up. Doing it by hand came out of frustration one day when doing the red faux xii years ago. I was like fuck it and found it easier and had more control. But I cringe myself when having no block as it goes against all I've read or watched before. You can see in the video the first time putting sand paper to guitar is like..."oh fuck"