Best Jaguar set up video

The original shortscale guitars; Mustangs, Duo-Sonics, Musicmasters, Jaguars, Broncos, Jag-stang, Jagmaster, Super-Sonic, Cyclone, and Toronados.

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Mike
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Best Jaguar set up video

Post: # 1425855Post Mike »

I’m sure hurb made this right?

Can someone link me the best videos walking through how you set up a Jaguar?

I’ve never done a start to finish on my VM Jaguar and I noticed Andy said his used to play like shit maybe mine does too idk

Now I’m between jobs I potentially have time for this stuff
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Post: # 1425856Post Doog »

Hard to go wrong with Puisheen:

[youtube][/youtube]
[youtube][/youtube]

I'm no pro, but I'm happy to share a few bulletpoints from my own experiences if that's helpful. I've absorbed a lot over the last year or so, thanks to kind types like Puisheen.
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Post: # 1425857Post Mike »

Please do share away as you know I’m a virtuoso player but not amazing at setups

Thanks for vids
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Hurb
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Post: # 1425860Post Hurb »

I am fancying a Scotland trip soon. If you can wait I can set it for you and give you all the pro tips?
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Post: # 1425861Post Doog »

He's just gonna turn up and throw your Staytrem bridge in the bin, Mike- BEWARE
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Post: # 1425862Post Hurb »

Doog wrote:He's just gonna turn up and throw your Staytrem bridge in the bin, Mike- BEWARE
Don't be fucking stupid Andy!



I will weigh it in!
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Post: # 1425864Post Mike »

I may need your help at some point, hurb.

I had a watch of the second video and he sort of skirts over the stuff he knows how to measure that I don't, like the back bow of the neck which I think may be my issue.

My staytrem bridge is pretty much flush with the body, which I know is not where you want it to be, you want it floating right, and the neck shimmed such that you bring the heel of the neck up closer to the strings and have it then giving you a nice action length of the scale?

I have a shim of two business cards depth in the pocket, and it's visible from the side of the guitar, so not insignificant, but the dusty end of the neck is still pretty much miles away from the strings, so there's no way I'm bringing the bridge up to make that worse...

Do I need to pack an entire cereal packet of cardboard as a shim to reduce my action on the upper frets? WTF is going on lads
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Post: # 1425865Post Mike »

I did break the guitar down and took off the neck etc, and found one small old shim I had in there which was a business card and covered only the section of the neck pocket of the two neck screws closest to the bridge.. I added another section as like I said I found my action at the high frets still seems high even with the bridge as low as it will go.

Something's up. Do I need a thicker full neck pocket shim or something to get to the point I need - and then some extra truss rod tension? How do you measure all this stuff without a feeler gauge?
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Post: # 1425866Post Mike »

Added some photos.

Bad boy (Squier)
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Good boy (Fender
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Post: # 1425867Post Mike »

Shim is mega long because these are always up in my targeted ads

http://www.stewmac.com/tonewoods/shop- ... 6266140842

Hurb has called me a n00b so I’ll try again with it reduced to a cm
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Post: # 1425868Post Bacchus »

Mike wrote: Something's up. Do I need a thicker full neck pocket shim or something to get to the point I need -
Yes, although not a full pocket shim. Focus the shim closer to the body. You're trying to create angle. A full pocket shim will just raise the neck by whatever the thickness of the shim is. A shim near the body will change the angle of the neck according to maths.
Mike wrote:and then some extra truss rod tension?
Nope! Truss rod is only for changing the straightness of the neck once it's under tension from the strings. It's not for changing the angle of the neck relative to the body.

The guide below uses feeler gauges and capos on the first and 15th fret, looking for a gap of 0.15mm. I've always just fingered the first and last fret, and eye-balled the gap at the 12th to be about 1mm and called it a day.

http://www.musicradar.com/how-to/adjus ... -truss-rod
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Post: # 1425869Post Bacchus »

Those stewmac things look like an unnecessary expense. I assume they're tapered to whatever angle that says. Some random wood/fag packet, rizlas, whatever will do the same thing if you cut a smaller section.
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Post: # 1425870Post Mike »

Thanks!

It’s basically fixed now - trimmed the shim to a double thickness 1cm and now I can raise the bridge a smidge and the action is way better across the whole neck

There should be a website about this

Thanks again to Hurb and everyone
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Post: # 1425871Post Noirie. »

Nice one.

Was just coming to post this anyway. I think that’s the “proper� way.
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Post: # 1425872Post Bacchus »

Make sure the trem cavity is shielded whilst you've it in pieces.
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Post: # 1425873Post Hurb »

Bacchus wrote:Make sure the trem cavity is shielded whilst you've it in pieces.

hahahah!
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Post: # 1425874Post Mike »

Noirie. wrote:Nice one.

Was just coming to post this anyway. I think that’s the “proper� way.
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Mine is approximately that size now maybe slightly longer. I’ll have a play with it for a day or so and see how it sits before I make any changes
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Post: # 1425878Post benecol »

Just had to have a good whiff of the smelling salts. I'm loving Mike's total shim all the time approach.

One assumes he has four jacks in the boot of his car, and wheel changes are a major endeavour.
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Post: # 1425879Post dots »

hate to be the guy who applies his last experience to everyone else's, but how is the jag's intonation toward the top of the neck?
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Post: # 1425881Post Mike »

benecol wrote:Just had to have a good whiff of the smelling salts. I'm loving Mike's total shim all the time approach.

One assumes he has four jacks in the boot of his car, and wheel changes are a major endeavour.
I don’t have a car remember - evolved past that 3 years ago

The old shim wasn’t doing it so I added more just the wrong more

Jason it intonates perfect - always has - the one bit of setup I can do
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